Spicing up the life of popcorn with forgotten herbs

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A bowl of pesto popcorn sits in a bowl in Maxwell Reister’s apartment on Tuesday, Oct. 8, 2013.

Maxwell Reister Evergreen Food and Beer columnist

People have long used the power of steam to flatten wrinkly clothes, heat buildings and move mile-long locomotives. But the greatest aspect of steam, perhaps, is its ability to explode kernels of corn into a tasty snack that can be eaten anywhere, anytime.

Popcorn begins as small, partially dried kernels of corn crammed with starch and just enough moisture. Kernels aren’t known for their roominess. When heated, the cramped moisture inside them becomes pressurized steam and turns the starch gelatinous. The pressure in those little kernels reaches around 135 pounds per square inch, which is just a hair under the pressure of fire-tube boilers used in early 20th century trains.

When the hull of the kernel breaks, its super-heated interior bursts out and cools quickly. The result is a tiny, edible sculpture of an explosion frozen in time, beloved around the world as popcorn.

Methods for coaxing these puffs from their kernels vary by culture. Chinese street vendors fill a high-pressure, cast-iron container with kernels, heat it over an open flame, and then quickly open the container into a bag. Rapid depressurization pops all the kernels at once, releasing a huge plume of steam and a fantastic boom.

In the United States, microwaving is the more common (albeit less exciting) method of popping corn. However, most microwave popcorn is pre-coated in company flavoring, eliminating much of the potential for customization that is possible with stove-top preparation.

Though it takes a bit longer, the following method was taught to me by Don Hanson, a twinkle-eyed host of Scottish Lakes High Camp, and can be prepared with a plethora of garnishes.

Start with a wide frying pan with a lid. Use a glass lid if you want to watch the kernels explode, which is way more entertaining than the drone of a microwave. Pour in enough cooking oil to cover the bottom of the pan, usually about two tablespoons. Set the burner to medium heat, put one kernel in the pan, and cover with the lid.

After a few minutes your scout kernel will pop. That means it’s time to dump in the rest. A quarter cup of kernels makes about five cups of popcorn, which is often the maximum one can pop in an average-sized frying pan.

As your kernels begin to pop, gently slide the frying pan back and forth, keeping the lid on. This will evenly mix the hot oil with the unpopped kernels. Once the popping slows, turn off the burner and pour the popcorn into a bowl. Before your pan cools, melt a tablespoon of butter using the residual heat and drizzle it over your bowlful of crunchy happiness.

The next step is to decide how to flavor your popcorn. Popcorn is mostly texture with little flavor of its own, so it obliges all manners of embellishment. This is a good chance to demo those forgotten herbs and spices in the back of your kitchen cabinet. Sample a teaspoon-full on a handful of popcorn and add a little more when you find one that tickles your fancy.

Other simple additions include grated cheese, brewer’s yeast and a mix of raisins and chocolate chips.

If you want to ascend to a higher plane of popcorn preparation, try one of these recipes by Rhonda L. Parkinson, author of The Everything College Cookbook.

Italian Pesto Popcorn

Ingredients:

â…“ cup butter

1 tsp. dried basil or parsley flakes

¼ tsp. garlic salt

2 tsp. Parmesan cheese (grated or powdered)

15 cups popped popcorn

Method:

1. Melt the butter in a small pan over low heat. Stir in the basil, garlic salt and cheese.

2. Spread the popcorn on a large tray, evenly drizzle the butter mixture over it, and serve.

Mushroom Popcorn

Ingredients:

            3 tbs. butter

            3 tbs. condensed mushroom soup

            1 tbs. brown sugar

            ¼ tsp. parsley flakes

            ¼ tsp. thyme

            ¼ tsp. red pepper flakes

            5-6 cups popped popcorn

Method:

1. Preheat the oven to 325°F.

2. Melt the butter in a small pan over low heat. Mix in the soup, brown sugar, parsley, thyme and pepper flakes. Continue stirring until sugar dissolves.

3. Spread the popcorn on a large baking sheet. Pour the sauce over it and mix well.

4. Bake the popcorn for 8 to 10 minutes. Check it once and stir it if necessary. Let it cool and store the leftovers in an airtight container.