If there’s one thing I’ve learned about Thanksgiving in America (as we don’t have such a holiday back home), it’s that Thanksgiving dinner is all about endurance and stamina.

As the hordes descend upon whichever poor soul who was delegated to host the family, the ensuing madness only guarantees one thing: way too much food.

In the face of the coming hedonism, one must add something to drink to the fray.

The wines mentioned here today were tasted with a group of people alongside some roasted turkey complete with gravy and cranberry sauce. The key component to paring such a long meal with often a myriad flavors (think sides and condiments), is versatility and lightness.

Wine writers use adjectives such as “energy” and “taut” to describe bottles that are really at their core, a good perception of acidity and ones that aren’t huge, explosive, or overpowering wines.

As such, avoid Californian Zinfandel or Italian Primitivo, for these wines are often fruit bombs that feel like drinking a slightly-diluted jam. Big Cabernets are also questionable. Of course if these wines make you happy, ignore my advice, for what do I know.  

So let’s begin with some bubbles. The NV (non-vintage) Roederer Estate Brut ($23) is an extremely well-made sparkling wine from the French off-shoot of the Champagne house, Louis Roederer. Expect a creamy mousse with fine bubbles, sharp green apples, and a fresh acidity that will help get those stomach juices rolling.

The 2013 Gewurztraminer from Villa Wolf ($12.75) — a subsidiary estate of Dr. Loosen, the German king pin of wine — is true to its fresh spicy varietal nature. A floral nose of rose syrup and violets is balanced with an acidic backbone and spice that can pair well with the large spectrum of turkey sides.

If you can find it, the 2013 Cedar Creek Estate Ehrenfelser ($19) from our Canadian neighbor is a Riesling made in a very old-world style. Highly aromatic with jasmine and tropical fruits, it had good body and a fine acidity with a touch of sweetness that would be perfect in putting some life into dried turkey breast.

Want something local? The 2011 Merry Cellar’s Sangiovese ($28) attacks with a little oak and some volatile acidity (smells a little like nail polish). Swirl your glass, or better yet, decant it, and cherries come along with a taut palate that refreshes. Great with that salty gravy.

An earthier contender is the 2009 La Mine from Yannick Amirault ($14.30), a 100 percent Cabernet Franc with some vegetative green pepper notes that open up to a fresh but structured wine (there’s a sense of density in your mouth) could go really well with the darker thigh meat.

I wrote of a Chilean Pinot Noir last week, the NV Pepperwood Grove and at $6.50 is a ridiculous bargain of a wine. Cheery with strawberry jam followed by spice and silky smooth tannins that work with all your other savory components.

Convention would also suggest some Beaujolais Nouveau, a seasonal wine that comes out every third Thursday of November. Essentially a 2-month-old wine, it is extremely fresh with very bright fruit flavors that are similar to shoving just-fermented berries into your mouth. There’s not a lot of depth, but it’s fun and often less than $8.

Finally for desert and something in the opposite direction, I recommend a botrytized sweet dessert wine such as a French Sauternes, Hungarian Tokaji, or a similar Washington counterpart. Chances are most of you haven’t tasted these, and to be honest it’s hard telling apart the good from bad without experience.

Consult your merchant and demand something with good acidity. They’re not cheap, but sure to put you into that food coma with its honeyed viscosity and often nutty and floral aromas that will stand up to a pumpkin pie and is glorious with hard salty cheese.

If logistics dictates only one wine, go for the sparklers as the bubbles are sure to keep you awake. At the very least, no one ever complains about sparkling wine.

Above all, keep it fresh, and don’t forget the acid.